Finshed Wing Stand Mount Points
Fabricated Lower Inboard Hard-points
Since I was able to get the top skins on last night, the wing skeleton was essentially squared up to itself. The pre-punched holes are simply amazing on accuracy and how it lines everything up. With the skeleton now squared up, it was time to make the bottom stand hard points so I can anchor the rear spar in the fixture to take out any twist.
Above is the inboard mount. I used some 2″ angle. Since the distance was a little too much, I had to add a chunk of 3/4″ oak I had laying around. As you can see, it worked out well. Now I can clamp the rear solid at the inboard end.
Fabricated Lower Outboard Hard-points
Now for the outboard end. I used some 1 1/2″ angle. It was too wide to clear the skins protruding from the ribs so I cut some clearance out with the bandsaw. After a little time on the scotchbrite wheel I was able to attach it to the stand.
Nice Little Level
Once the hard points were done, I rechecked the level of the main spars. I picked up this digital level at Home Depot Aviation supply. Between the bubble and the digital scale, I think I have these pretty well zeroed in. The level was pretty well priced for the feature set compared to others out there. Seems pretty accurate.
Time to Square Up and Anchor…Then Drill Away!
Next up, I need to hang some plumb bobs from the main spar and then insure the distance from the string/bob is the same at each end at the rear spar and then anchor the rear spars solid. I think I will then remove the skins to relieve any pressure from the twist removal and then re-attach and start match drilling all the holes.
